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Old October 17th, 2009, 05:40 PM   #1
ϟDecade
FINAL KAMEN ATTACK FORM RIDE: OWNER
 
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 31,600
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Market Rules/Policies/FAQs - READ FIRST - UPDATED: April 27, 2015

Disclaimer: All deals are done at the traders' risks and the administration of RangerBoard shall not be held accountable for ANYTHING. Including but not limited to PayPal faults, failed deals, shipping problems and scams.

We also reserve the rights to:
  • Share one's information publicly if deemed a scammer to assist protecting the members of the site.
  • Shut down & refuse to allow any transaction postings that may be deemed unacceptable which include but not limited to: Firearms, Drugs, and any other form of weapons.


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Rules:
  • Youtube Reviews are Advertisements.
    Youtube reviews are advertising the reviewer's channel as the reviews are not actually on RangerBoard. So this privilege is only for active VIP-2 members, and the threads belong in the Advertisement section.
  • Sale Trade threads must be accompanied by photos of the items you're selling. This includes possible/interest threads as well.
    In each photo, you must include a piece of paper with your Alias hand-written on it. Don't have time or don't have a camera? Too bad, in either of those cases, you shouldn't be selling and you won't be. Veteran users may be exempt from this rule.
  • Direct Trading is prohibited. Each trade must be given equal values so each dealer can PayPal each other on the agreement amount as PayPal insurance. Exception is open for both trading users if they're both Veteran Tag users and only trading 1 or 2 items. 3 or more must be dealt as sales.
  • Sellers posting in a "wanted" thread with an item to sell should, before the transaction completes, provide a picture of the item, as per RangerBoard standards, as both a reassurance to the buyer and protection to themself.
    This is a suggestion and courtesy to both parties to ensure no scamming goes on. However, buyers should be smart enough to check this themself and this will not be an enforced or infractionable rule.

    Moderator's Note: Those with Veteran Tags are not required to have their user name on a piece of paper with their photos of the merchandise they are wanting to buy or trade. However, they are still required to have photos though, regardless of their Vet status.

    For Prop Makers: Because of the nature of the props, and looking for interests first - prop makers must at the very least post samples of existing work accompanied by the name written on a piece of paper.
  • No bumping your sales thread.
    Your post must show that there is new information (a change in pricing, what is sold/shipped, etc) and be relevant to the thread. If not, it may be a bump, regardless of if you use the word "bump" or not. It is preferred for the word "bump" to never be used, especially when updating a thread.
  • No asking for FREE Handouts.
    This is not a place for begging. People will not just send you something for free, even if it's your birthday. If you're a minor, please ask your parents for assistance on making a purchase here.
  • No creating new threads for auctions that aren't yours.
    Posting a random or "cool" auction puts up competition. It's pointless for you, so it's unnecessary. However, if someone is asking for help searching out an item, that's fair play.
  • No pirate copies of official DVDs for sale.
    Source for full information: http://www.RangerBoard.com/showthread.php?t=127023
  • No directing to off-board communications.
    Members must use forum communications for transactions on this board. Exceptions are made on specific cases where a user may be escalating into Suspended Service or Scammer status.
  • Prop Makers must provide photo updates to their clients every week or two on the status of the project work.
    Failing to comply will result in Suspended Service tag, lost of ability to post new threads, and/or Scammer tag.
  • No copying the work of another Prop-Maker in the community whose work was personally crafted/casted by them.
    We encourage prop makers to show off their talents, but please, make sure the work you are doing is your own.
  • No advanced payments. Sellers cannot ask for advanced payments, services/products must be available immediately after payment. This rule may be an exception to those with veteran tags. Please consult with Merchandise Moderators first before making a thread that requires advanced payments.
  • Sellers must list who they sold the items to & Traders must list who they traded the item to, and what they're receiving back. This is an organized way of tracking transactions. Members can see what's no longer available, and staff can track down any affected users if anyone was scammed. Buyers & the other traders should reply to the thread with information on their deal, while this is not required, it publicly shows this information, and we can crack down on the sellers/initial traders to make that list.
  • All payments must be paid as "Goods or Services", and not "Gift" aka "Money for Friends & Family". Anyone caught requesting as "Gift" or "Money for Friends & Family" will have their sales shut down and infractions may be issued. Uncooperative users may also lose complete access to Marketplace.

    Buyers need to think about the "Friends & Family" payment method carefully, the method is for sending FREE money to your family & friends. Are you here to send anyone FREE money? If so, great. If not, then don't do it. You will not be under Paypal's Buyers Protection, because you didn't make a purchase. You just gave away money to a "Family" or "Friend" on RangerBoard.

    Sellers should factor in their fees to the total cost, you can use this site to help calculate the fees: http://thefeecalculator.com/

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Icons Disclaimer: Usage of these icons are simply to indicate high positive feedback members that also have been on the board for a long period of time. We accept zero liability for any decision you may make based on the icon. The decisions are yours, the transaction are yours.

Veteran Title Icons:


Given to high positive feedback Buyers. Buyers are users that primarily buy rather than sell or trade.


Given to high positive feedback Sellers. Sellers are users that primarily sell rather than buy or trade.


Given to high positive feedback Traders. Traders are users that primarily does trading rather than buying or selling.


Given to high positive feedback Dealers. Dealers are users that does buying, selling & or trading very often.


Given to high positive feedback and trusted Propmakers.


Given to users that have been flagged as scammers, DO NOT deal with such users.


Given to anyone that have failed to provide adequate service to the members of RangerBoard. Especially Prop Makers, until they can complete their existing orders and bring their service back up to standard, their services are suspended and members should not dealing with these labeled Prop Makers.


Given to an ex-scammer that has refunded money to the victims, apologized publicly, and gained the community's forgiveness. Under this tag, the probation member must follow specific terms and rules when dealing. Always deal with caution, and consult with staff at any time.


How to Apply for an Icon:
:
Make ONE new post here with all your feedback information & sales threads if you're a seller:
http://www.RangerBoard.com/showthread.php?t=131404

FAQ:

Q: What if I have negative & neutrals?
A: You have to report them as well, if you fail to and it's discovered you have a ton (20 - 30% of your total feedbacks), you will be fail and be blacklisted from applying for an icon.

Q: What are the requirements for an icon?
A: They're case by case for each member. Factors include but not limited to: Feedback Rating, Time/Activity on Board, Behavior, eBay if provided, and VIP membership.

Q: How long does it take to get approved?
A: As long as it takes. Time will vary when I have time to do reviews and the lineup.

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Policy for Sellers & Buyers:

- First thing to do, always check our Scammers List first before completing a deal, see if any information matches:
http://www.RangerBoard.com/announcement.php?f=32&a=8

- Inspect the package(s) thoroughly before opening.
This is critically important because if the package appears to be damaged or has been opened & re-sealed, you need to protest that with the delivery person/service/company. If it's been delivered to you in person, you can reject the package due to the damage or open the package to inspect the merchandise. The postal person should be able to write a damage report based on your analysis.

Postal services offer insurances on shipping for a reason and dealers need ensure they use the insurances if their merchandises are damaged by the carriers.

If the package was left at the door, or you discover damage after, you can still try to bring it down to the postal offices to dispute. Many will have a dispute form for you to fill out.

- Caution when dealing with minors.
If you really must deal with one, take some procaution. They may include asking for their parents to make the deal, ask for a contact number so you and the parent can speak over the phone.
Get the parents involved. If the parents are unaware of what the child is doing online, that's never a good sign.

1: Veteran Users demand for the item/payment first.
All veteran users have the right to demand for the item/payment to be sent first if the user is new or have a weak reputation in the merchandise area.

2: Save all transaction information
Save all the information you had with the opposing dealer. Name, Address, Number, Payment Information - they can all come in handy if you have to report a dispute or call local authorities.

3: Payment Methods

Paypal is the only acceptable payment method on RangerBoard. Be sure no matter what you sell, include: Insurance and Tracking Number or Delivery Confirmation.

Sure it costs a few bucks more, but they will come in handy if you have to report a dispute with eBay, your Credit Card company, & or Paypal. Being out a few bucks is better than being out a potential few hundred dollars.
In most cases, the buyer should be paying for these fees anyway.

Sellers should factor in their fees to the total cost, you can use this site to help calculate the fees: http://thefeecalculator.com/

Paypal - Always ask for the paypal to be made direct from their bank, or an echeck to Paypal first. Credit Card payments can be risky if they order a Charge-Back.

And when paying by Paypal, ensure to never check "Payment Owed" or alike options.

It should always be set on "Purchase as Goods & Services".

In the notes, include:
Purchase from RangerBoard.
Buyer's Forum ID:
Seller's Forum ID:

This may strengthen your Paypal Dispute claim if there happens to be a problem.

4: Money Wires/Direct Bank Despots - Avoid!! Do not conduct any deals that requires this. These methods are not acceptable on RangerBoard, and should be reported for shut down.

5: Conversion
Be sure to remember that 1 USD does not equal 1 GBP or 1 YEN. Sites such as www.xe.com will help you keep track of just how much money you are discussing in your own currency when dealing with international transactions.

Reporting Scammers or Unresponsive Users:

Please use the Member Support section here: http://www.RangerBoard.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

All threads can only be viewed by yourself, and staff members.


Reporting Fraudulent or Undeserved Negative Feedback:


Please use the Member Support section here: http://www.RangerBoard.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

All threads can only be viewed by yourself, and staff members. Please be prepared to justify and show why you do not deserve the negative feedback.


Final Notes:
If anyone has anything they like to ask or add, please use the Member Support section here: http://www.RangerBoard.com/forumdisplay.php?f=47

If you've been scammed or have a bad feeling in the middle of a transaction, please read all information here and follow the instructed procedures:
http://www.RangerBoard.com/announcement.php?f=32&a=8


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DETAILS ON USING THE I-TRADER SYSTEM
http://www.RangerBoard.com/showthread.php?t=150308

Last edited by OmegaRangerRed; August 13th, 2014 at 07:14 AM.
Decade is offline  
Old October 17th, 2009, 05:40 PM   #2
ϟDecade
FINAL KAMEN ATTACK FORM RIDE: OWNER
 
Decade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 31,600
1
Additional Information:

**Please note: This FAQ is a work-in-progress**
Currently changing to sound more like 'useful information' rather than a set of nazi rules...

THE RANGERBOARD GOLDEN RULE
-Before you post, USE THE SEARCH function!
http://www.RangerBoard.com/search.php? (You shouldn't have any problems using the search function by now.)

1) Looking for an old/classic item?
-Almost always, other board members will refer you to eBay. That's a good place to start before asking here. Chances are you'll find whatever you're looking for.
-Old toy/comic shops, garage sales and thrift shops might have some hidden goodies as well.

2) Looking for Bandai Japan merchandise?
-Try:
CS Toys
Big Bad Toy Store
Hobby Link Japan
CD Japan
Or posting a thread asking for recommendations.

3) How can I get stuff from Yahoo! Japan Auctions? I can't find what I'm looking for since it's all in japanese!
-Try Celga or Rinkya services. Each site has a rundown of how their service works, as well as methods of surfing through japanese websites.
-Be careful... prices, fees and taxes and MORE fees can add up.
-Anything else dealing with Yahoo! Japan Auctions, you're on your own...

4) Which is better: Bandai America or Bandai Japan?
It depends on your taste. Most of the time:
-Bandai Japan has better paint jobs and plastic
-Bandai America has better prices, better availabilty

5) When is (insert new item) gonna be out?
-No one ever TRUELY knows. It's always up to the stores themselves to put whatever they have out on the shelves. Best thing to do is just wait it out until someone reports that it's out. Usually the West Coast and Florida get the first shipments. If you live in the Northeast... well, just play with last year's toys for a while.

6) Seen (insert new item) in stores?
-POST PICS... No one here's gonna believe it until they see it.
-No camera? Other kinds of 'proof' like item numbers, or thorough descriptions might be more reasonable for fellow board members.

7) "For Sale" Threads
Sellers:
-Be as descriptive as possible. Leave behind the description of the product, what it is, when it was released, how is the condition, etc...
-Provide pictures if possible.
-If you received a question about a certain item, it is advised and suggested that you edit the original post with both question and answer.
-If an item is sold, or you have a new item to sell, perhaps it'd be better to just edit the original post. It'll clear up confusion.
-If you see a "For Sale" thread, please don't add that you also have items for sale. Make a seperate thread.

Buyers:
-Use PM's whenever possible.
-Use caution if item description is vague and without pictures.
-Ask when it doubt.

8) I need help making my own (insert item).
-Helmets, Costumes, Morphers and Communicators have been and still are being discussed. Use the RangerBoard Golden Rule.


Common abbreviations for grading condition of a merchandise
[2.1.2.1] The "C" Scale
The "C" Scale is a grading system wherein the C (Condition) is coupled with a number from 1 to 10 in order to better represent the condition of a piece of memorabilia. C10 is perfect, while C1 might as well be a dog toy or landfill fodder. Decimal points are also employed often, usually a .5 (ex. C8.5). Any other decimals used are, quite frankly, clutter and useless for the most part. a "+" or "-" (ex. C8.5+) are also used a lot, and are perfectly valid, though they too can confuse the matter. As with any grading system, a position on the scale will vary from person to person, rendering it all, to an extent, somewhat arbitrary. Make no mistake though, a C10 is always a C10 and is FLAWLESS. Also there is no such thing as a "C9 except for.." or "...otherwise a C10". It either is or it isn't, period. In any case, the C Scale does give the buyer one of the best summaries of the condition of a piece. The C Scale is not, however, a good substitute for a highly detailed description and good photos, but instead a nice compliment and method of summarizing the descriptions and photos.

C10- Mint condition
A flawless piece that looks exactly like the day it was made. I can't stress enough that there is abolutely nothing wrong with a C10 toy. A perfect example. All parts and accessories are included.

C9- Near Mint condition
A toy that has almost no wear. All parts and accessories are included. The only flaws are miniscule and probably not immediately obvious.

C8- Excellent condition
A piece that has minor wear. This is the most common condition that a modern example would be found in, and is still a very good, collectible piece. There will be a few evident defects, but absolutely nothing to detract from the overall appeal of the toy, poster, etc. There might be missing accessories, but no broken or missing parts on the toy itself.

C7- Very Fine - Fine condition
A toy that has noticeable wear and tear but does not have any damage. There has been some obvious handling, but is still a good display piece. There might be some minor breaks, and accessories might be missing. Many vintage toys are found in this condition.

C6- Very Good condition
Noticeable wear and tear, some damage that is quite obvious but not too distracting or unappealing.

C5- Good condition
Definitely a piece that has been around the block. Major pieces or accessories will be missing, large areas of paint scratched away. Tears, folds, creases, etc. are evident. Can still be displayed, but defects will be obvious.

C4- Fair condition
Major defects and problems are evident. All of the problems of C5 but more prominent. Would make a great spare parts piece for a toy, but otherwise most collectors wouldn't touch one of these.

C3- Poor condition
In many cases, these are more damaged than intact, and possibly only salvagable as spare parts.

C2, C1- Bad condition
Speaks for itself. Only upon close inspection can these probably be identified as what they once were. Missing parts, huge tears and chunks, no paint whatsoever, Rover's tooth marks. Perhaps at one point in it's life it was a lawn ornament. You never know.
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[2.1.2.2] CNP
Complete, with No Package.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
[2.1.2.3] FS, FT
For Sale, For Trade
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[2.1.2.4] Loose
Just as it says. The packaging might be included, but the toy has been removed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
[2.1.2.5] M, Mint, "Deadstock" Mint
Perfect in all ways. Not a single little defect anywhere. A "deadstock" piece is one that never left the factory and entered the market. Literally dead stock. Usually these end up in C9 or C10 condition, but are found in lesser condition. Deadstock mint is in every way a C10 piece.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
[2.1.2.6] MIB, MIMB, MISB

Mint in Bag/Box
The toy or item is in C10 condition, in packaging. Note that this does not mention the condition in any way of the packaging itself, which could be in C4 condition.

Mint In Mint Bag/Box
Just as it states. The packaging could have conceivably been opened, though.

Mint in Sealed Bag/Box
A perfect piece in never-opened packaging. Note this also does not state the condition of the packaging. MIMSB would be Mint Sealed, but you get the idea.
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[2.1.2.7] MOC, MOMC
Mint on Card and Mint on Mint Card. See [2.1.2.6].
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[2.1.2.8] MWT
Mint With Tag- Refers primarily to the tags that accompany most Bandai action figures. Note that this doesn't mention whether or not the tag is currently attached to the figure or not.
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[2.1.2.9] NM, Near Mint
See [2.1.2.1]. A C9 piece.
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[2.1.2.10] NRFB
Never Removed from Box. The packaging has been opened to inspect the toy itself, but the toy was never removed. All inserts are still in place and untouched. This states nothing about the condition of the toy or packaging itself, though many wrongly assume both are C9+
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[2.1.2.11] UP
Unpunched- This refers to the perforated hanger hole area on many figure cards or bags which would have to be removed for the toy to hang from a peg. "Unpunched" is when this area has never been punched out.
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[2.1.2.12] WTB, WTT
Want To Buy, Want To Trade

PS: Found this on another website

Might also want to add the term "Proto" or "Protos" -- usually used to describe Prototype/Test Shots that somehow left the factory -- often seen on eBay. a set of loose PRNS Protos usually looks like a badly done knokc-off in C6-C8 condition with no packaging, a Red Ranger may have a White Hand. A Blue Ranger may have a Red Helmet. The plastic quality is crap as it's usually recycled for another prototype, but if you see these (They'll look like HK's except they'll seem more like a home-made custom with wonky colors) they're usually worth a bit as most don't survive the Prototyping proccess or become next years figures. I occasionally see Protos or PT's on the rare occasion leaked onto eBay, awhile Back ArtAsylum sold off some NX-01 Protos and although I don't have one, I know somebody who does.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OmegaRangerRed
well, you got: sealed or opened and scratched or unscratched
well you also have DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, VCD, SVCD...

Also all the different regions (unless people burn them region less)

and NTSC or PAL format.

People need to know there's different types of things, because not everything is compatable with everything!

....

Last edited by Decade; October 18th, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
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