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Old October 17th, 2009, 05:40 PM #2
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FINAL KAMEN ATTACK FORM RIDE: OWNER
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 32,564
1
Decade
FINAL KAMEN ATTACK FORM RIDE: OWNER
Decade's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 32,564
1



Additional Information:

**Please note: This FAQ is a work-in-progress**
Currently changing to sound more like 'useful information' rather than a set of nazi rules...

THE RANGERBOARD GOLDEN RULE
-Before you post, USE THE SEARCH function!
http://www.RangerBoard.com/search.php? (You shouldn't have any problems using the search function by now.)

1) Looking for an old/classic item?
-Almost always, other board members will refer you to eBay. That's a good place to start before asking here. Chances are you'll find whatever you're looking for.
-Old toy/comic shops, garage sales and thrift shops might have some hidden goodies as well.

2) Looking for Bandai Japan merchandise?
-Try:
CS Toys
Big Bad Toy Store
Hobby Link Japan
CD Japan
Or posting a thread asking for recommendations.

3) How can I get stuff from Yahoo! Japan Auctions? I can't find what I'm looking for since it's all in japanese!
-Try Celga or Rinkya services. Each site has a rundown of how their service works, as well as methods of surfing through japanese websites.
-Be careful... prices, fees and taxes and MORE fees can add up.
-Anything else dealing with Yahoo! Japan Auctions, you're on your own...

4) Which is better: Bandai America or Bandai Japan?
It depends on your taste. Most of the time:
-Bandai Japan has better paint jobs and plastic
-Bandai America has better prices, better availabilty

5) When is (insert new item) gonna be out?
-No one ever TRUELY knows. It's always up to the stores themselves to put whatever they have out on the shelves. Best thing to do is just wait it out until someone reports that it's out. Usually the West Coast and Florida get the first shipments. If you live in the Northeast... well, just play with last year's toys for a while.

6) Seen (insert new item) in stores?
-POST PICS... No one here's gonna believe it until they see it.
-No camera? Other kinds of 'proof' like item numbers, or thorough descriptions might be more reasonable for fellow board members.

7) "For Sale" Threads
Sellers:
-Be as descriptive as possible. Leave behind the description of the product, what it is, when it was released, how is the condition, etc...
-Provide pictures if possible.
-If you received a question about a certain item, it is advised and suggested that you edit the original post with both question and answer.
-If an item is sold, or you have a new item to sell, perhaps it'd be better to just edit the original post. It'll clear up confusion.
-If you see a "For Sale" thread, please don't add that you also have items for sale. Make a seperate thread.

Buyers:
-Use PM's whenever possible.
-Use caution if item description is vague and without pictures.
-Ask when it doubt.

8) I need help making my own (insert item).
-Helmets, Costumes, Morphers and Communicators have been and still are being discussed. Use the RangerBoard Golden Rule.


Common abbreviations for grading condition of a merchandise
[2.1.2.1] The "C" Scale
The "C" Scale is a grading system wherein the C (Condition) is coupled with a number from 1 to 10 in order to better represent the condition of a piece of memorabilia. C10 is perfect, while C1 might as well be a dog toy or landfill fodder. Decimal points are also employed often, usually a .5 (ex. C8.5). Any other decimals used are, quite frankly, clutter and useless for the most part. a "+" or "-" (ex. C8.5+) are also used a lot, and are perfectly valid, though they too can confuse the matter. As with any grading system, a position on the scale will vary from person to person, rendering it all, to an extent, somewhat arbitrary. Make no mistake though, a C10 is always a C10 and is FLAWLESS. Also there is no such thing as a "C9 except for.." or "...otherwise a C10". It either is or it isn't, period. In any case, the C Scale does give the buyer one of the best summaries of the condition of a piece. The C Scale is not, however, a good substitute for a highly detailed description and good photos, but instead a nice compliment and method of summarizing the descriptions and photos.

C10- Mint condition
A flawless piece that looks exactly like the day it was made. I can't stress enough that there is abolutely nothing wrong with a C10 toy. A perfect example. All parts and accessories are included.

C9- Near Mint condition
A toy that has almost no wear. All parts and accessories are included. The only flaws are miniscule and probably not immediately obvious.

C8- Excellent condition
A piece that has minor wear. This is the most common condition that a modern example would be found in, and is still a very good, collectible piece. There will be a few evident defects, but absolutely nothing to detract from the overall appeal of the toy, poster, etc. There might be missing accessories, but no broken or missing parts on the toy itself.

C7- Very Fine - Fine condition
A toy that has noticeable wear and tear but does not have any damage. There has been some obvious handling, but is still a good display piece. There might be some minor breaks, and accessories might be missing. Many vintage toys are found in this condition.

C6- Very Good condition
Noticeable wear and tear, some damage that is quite obvious but not too distracting or unappealing.

C5- Good condition
Definitely a piece that has been around the block. Major pieces or accessories will be missing, large areas of paint scratched away. Tears, folds, creases, etc. are evident. Can still be displayed, but defects will be obvious.

C4- Fair condition
Major defects and problems are evident. All of the problems of C5 but more prominent. Would make a great spare parts piece for a toy, but otherwise most collectors wouldn't touch one of these.

C3- Poor condition
In many cases, these are more damaged than intact, and possibly only salvagable as spare parts.

C2, C1- Bad condition
Speaks for itself. Only upon close inspection can these probably be identified as what they once were. Missing parts, huge tears and chunks, no paint whatsoever, Rover's tooth marks. Perhaps at one point in it's life it was a lawn ornament. You never know.
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[2.1.2.2] CNP
Complete, with No Package.
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[2.1.2.3] FS, FT
For Sale, For Trade
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[2.1.2.4] Loose
Just as it says. The packaging might be included, but the toy has been removed.
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[2.1.2.5] M, Mint, "Deadstock" Mint
Perfect in all ways. Not a single little defect anywhere. A "deadstock" piece is one that never left the factory and entered the market. Literally dead stock. Usually these end up in C9 or C10 condition, but are found in lesser condition. Deadstock mint is in every way a C10 piece.
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[2.1.2.6] MIB, MIMB, MISB

Mint in Bag/Box
The toy or item is in C10 condition, in packaging. Note that this does not mention the condition in any way of the packaging itself, which could be in C4 condition.

Mint In Mint Bag/Box
Just as it states. The packaging could have conceivably been opened, though.

Mint in Sealed Bag/Box
A perfect piece in never-opened packaging. Note this also does not state the condition of the packaging. MIMSB would be Mint Sealed, but you get the idea.
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[2.1.2.7] MOC, MOMC
Mint on Card and Mint on Mint Card. See [2.1.2.6].
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[2.1.2.8] MWT
Mint With Tag- Refers primarily to the tags that accompany most Bandai action figures. Note that this doesn't mention whether or not the tag is currently attached to the figure or not.
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[2.1.2.9] NM, Near Mint
See [2.1.2.1]. A C9 piece.
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[2.1.2.10] NRFB
Never Removed from Box. The packaging has been opened to inspect the toy itself, but the toy was never removed. All inserts are still in place and untouched. This states nothing about the condition of the toy or packaging itself, though many wrongly assume both are C9+
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[2.1.2.11] UP
Unpunched- This refers to the perforated hanger hole area on many figure cards or bags which would have to be removed for the toy to hang from a peg. "Unpunched" is when this area has never been punched out.
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[2.1.2.12] WTB, WTT
Want To Buy, Want To Trade

PS: Found this on another website

Might also want to add the term "Proto" or "Protos" -- usually used to describe Prototype/Test Shots that somehow left the factory -- often seen on eBay. a set of loose PRNS Protos usually looks like a badly done knokc-off in C6-C8 condition with no packaging, a Red Ranger may have a White Hand. A Blue Ranger may have a Red Helmet. The plastic quality is crap as it's usually recycled for another prototype, but if you see these (They'll look like HK's except they'll seem more like a home-made custom with wonky colors) they're usually worth a bit as most don't survive the Prototyping proccess or become next years figures. I occasionally see Protos or PT's on the rare occasion leaked onto eBay, awhile Back ArtAsylum sold off some NX-01 Protos and although I don't have one, I know somebody who does.

OmegaRangerRed wrote:
well, you got: sealed or opened and scratched or unscratched
well you also have DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, VCD, SVCD...

Also all the different regions (unless people burn them region less)

and NTSC or PAL format.

People need to know there's different types of things, because not everything is compatable with everything!

....

Last edited by Decade; October 18th, 2009 at 11:13 PM.
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