⚡ RangerBoard

⚡ RangerBoard (https://www.rangerboard.com/index.php)
-   Merchandise (https://www.rangerboard.com/forumdisplay.php?f=4)
-   -    DISCUSSION  Power Morphers: Fixing, Restoring, and Customizing (https://www.rangerboard.com/showthread.php?t=150071)

OmegaRangerRed September 16th, 2011 07:17 AM

Power Morphers: Fixing, Restoring, and Customizing
After discussing with MS, it was decided that, while useful, we had a few too many sticky threads about power morphers, whether it was to fix, restore, or customize them.

Thus, all the data is being collected into one thread, with adknowledgements made to those who put the information together, as well as a link to the original thread for any additional references.

OmegaRangerRed September 16th, 2011 07:18 AM

How to reduce the gap in your Buckler/MMPR Morpher
[QUOTE=King Ranger;3304102]Since I was working on a lot of stuff today I threw this in there as well to help some of you out.

Step 1: Tools

What you will need are:
1 small bowl or plate with raised outside edge
1 pair of scissors or a sharp hobby knife
1 small tube of super glue
1 small philips screwdrive
1 pair of long nose pliers (optional but recommended)
1 small pack of plastic strips. These are available at most hobby store or online at [url]www.plastruct.com[/url] and the like. You will need some that has about a .15 to .2mm thickness. The stuff I had was .15mm x 3mm x 300mm and I slightly wish I had used .2mm. It's really inexpensive, like $2 or less a pack.

Step 2: Doing it

First take out the battery cover and batteries. For those that have an MMPR morpher, this is next part is pretty easy, but for those with a buckler, take a deep breath... You have to remove the back stickers or at least poke holes into them. (Not so unhappy about those missing stickers now, are you morpher owners)

Once you've done that, remove the screws indicated by the red circles:

Carefully remove the back plate while the handle to the buckler/morpher is closed. You need to be careful for two reasons: 1. There is a spring in there that is not really secured by anything, so it could fall out easy:

AND 2. There is a wire connected from the back of the toy you are removing and the electronics within. No worries, you DON'T need to cut this. Just be careful. See the white wire in the pic above.

Next remove the red part indicated here:

As well as the handle. It just slides out, no extra force or anything. Set pieces aside in small bowl or plate with spring.

Your toy should now look like this:

After all that is completed you, now, need to remove the spring that keeps the toy open. So spin the toy around.

Using your long nose pliers or even something like a small flat head screwdriver pop of one side of the spring and then the other. Pay attention to how it is oriented. This is actually very easy to get off and can even pop off if you aren't careful while removing it.


Now, you need to remove the screws from the 'X' pieces. Pull the back of the toy to one side and remove the screws indicated:

Repeat on opposite side:

Then remove 'X' pieces from the toy:
[B]^-- This is pic #9[/B]

You will see japanese writing on each piece. This actually tell you which goes on top of which:

The one that looks like '下' means under or bottom ([URL="http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E4%B8%8B"]shita[/URL]) while the other '上' ([URL="http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/%E4%B8%8A"]ue[/URL]) means above or top. If you get them flipped around don't worry, the little middle mark needs to be on the right side of the character.

Now you need to get your plastic and cut a couple of small pieces from it. You will be attaching those pieces here:

on each 'X' piece. Here are some pics of the new addition glued on:

Once that is dry, you will need to trim down the excess marked here with either a pair of sharp scissors or a sharp hobby knife (BE CAREFUL!):

When you've finished that, follow all the above instructions from pic #9 and up in reverse order to reassemble your buckler/morpher and you are done.

A small word of advice, getting the spring back onto the 'X' pieces is much more difficult that removing it. With a pair of long nose pliers it should not be TOO hard. If using the .2mm thickness plastic/styrene was too much you can use a piece of 400grit sandpaper to sand down the addition slightly. Too much will mean starting over.

Hope that helps. There are other methods to reducing the gap but that involves bending and possibly breaking the 'X' pieces, so this is the 'easy' way, so to speak. If you need more info, let me know.[/QUOTE]


Thanks to King Ranger for the information

OmegaRangerRed September 16th, 2011 07:20 AM

Power Morpher Restoration and Customisation
[QUOTE=Remmy 84;3761376]Hi all.

I recently aquired two power morphers in varying conditions.




Both had terrible sticker wear and one was severly beat up. I got on here straight away seeing if there was anybody who could make them look like new, when someone suggested i would enjoy it more if i did the work myself.

Here is how i got on :)


Remove the stickers. I have seen on another thread since starting this that a product called GOO GONE PLANT POWER works wonders for this. However i couldn't find this in the UK. So i did it the old fashioned way: Nail Pollish remover, fingernails and a whole lot of patience. Now before you all scream no for the nail pollish remover, remember this: If you use it in moderation and VERY sparingly there are no issues with this lovely substance. Abuse it and it WILL make you cry as it eats away at your plates. I chose to use this as i had it in the house, i had used it many times before when building Air Fix kits, and because i wanted to be honest. I would have loved to use Goo Gone, but as i said, I could not locate it.

Peel the stickers off as best as you can with your fingernails or a blunt metal instrument. Butter knives worked wonders for me.
Take a cotton bud and lightly dip it into the nail pollish remover. Gently wipe the cotton bud over the stickers and watch as it removes them. You may need to apply gentle pressure to remove some tricky stickers. As you can see i learned the gently gently approach the hard way.



The next one i tried more gently and with better results.


I realised this was slightly less important as i would be priming the plates anyway and the paint being stripped did not matter as much as i feared.



Remove the plates. This is possibly one of the easiest tasks you will undertake in this project. Firstly pop the morpher open using the button on the side (try and refrain from shouting various extinct animal names when you press the button). On the revers sde of the now open plates you will see two screws on each plate. Remove these screws and store safely.


Now we can see the freshly exposed plates for the first time.
With all the stickers removed and the plates off the morpher, now would be the time to prime the plates.


Prime the plates. Ensure you use a primer that is designed to be used with plastics. Using the wrong primer/paint can have fatal consequences for your prized possession.

Spray carefully and constantly. Keep a relative distance from the plates and ensure you dont keep in one spot for too long.


Allow time to dry if you intend to do multiple coats, this stuff is very thick bear in mind. My plates only needed 1 coat.


Painting the plates. I used a silver spray paint on one set and a gold paint on the second. Ensure the plates are supported and wont blast off when spraying. This sounds odd advise, but as i found out some paints are powerful. My gold paint was very gentle, whereas my silver paint nearly threw it off my table.
The same premise goes with painting as it does with priming. Use a sweeping motion over the plates and dont focus on one area for too long. If you do you could get a paint build up in some of the reccessed areas, or you can get running paint which can ruin your entire work so far.



Re-coat as necessary but dont go crazy, as like the primer you can fill in the reccessed areas with too much paint. Allow to dry for a few hours just to be on the safe side.


Then return the plates to the morpher and admire the new look.

Applying the stickers. I went for Reprolabels as they are the only ones i have seen available. They arrived less than a week after ordering. Very happy with them and they seem excellent quality. Others i have been told since are available :)


Take your time on this bit. This was by far my most worrying part as one slip up would ruin my stickers and mean i may have had to start again. Turns out the stickers were of a fantastic quality, easily re-positionable if placed wrongly and the black lightning bolts were almost a plastic type of sticker rather than paper.



And thats it. My morphers are finished and ready for my display case which im also making myself to show off these work of arts :)

[SIZE="5"][COLOR="Red"]Display Case[/COLOR][/SIZE]

So while my paint was drying i contemplated making a display case for these, as it would be a shame to just have them sat on my shelf. I looked into getting a shadowbox frame (I think thats what they're called) but they were quite expensive and i couldn't find any in the UK.

Thats when i thought it would be a great idea, since doing all the work on the morphers, to do all the work on my case.

I started with this stuff: [url]http://www.opticsplanet.net/pelican-1552-2-pc-pick-n-pluck-foam-set.html[/url]. I had "aquired" some of it from my work and it seemed like a good start.


I placed the morpher on and drew vaguely round it in chalk, which made it easier to see where i could pop the innards out. Once out i could remove a few millimetres from the inserts and re-insert.


As you can see the morpher sits in quite nicely and so do the coins :) Even though not pictured yet...


Next came the hard part, upholstering. I decided to aquire some fabric from hobbycraft. The measuring/cutting was fine, but when it came to affixing the fabric i found regular glue and double sided sticky tape just weren't up to the task. I opted to go for spray adhesive, for fixing carpets. The only downside of this was that excessive use could soak through the material. (bottom right square shows how the adhesive can soak through)


I tried finding a suitable chest to place them in, but couldn't find anything to accomodate the setup i had. So i started again after recieving my new chest from here:


And here is the almost finished article. Need to varnish it or paint it, haven't decided what i should do with it yet.



Special thanks to Remmy 84 for the information.

OmegaRangerRed September 16th, 2011 07:21 AM

How to Repair a Power Morpher Video Tutorial
[QUOTE=DanielFyre;3869793]Hi there guys I know there have been some questions about how to repair power morphers as of late and I haven't seen a video tutorial on how to troubleshoot them so I decided to make one. Here ya go guys hope this ends up being helpful to some:



Special thanks to DanielFyre for the information.

ItzMorPhINtiME October 8th, 2011 11:44 AM

I ordered the original gun/sword with morpher and coins for my costume and now the website that I got most of my things don't carry the belt with the morpher holster, and they dint event make a holster for the gun. Can anyone tell me where I can purchase a belt with a morpher holster or just a holster? I have to have it ready by two weeks and I'm kind of worried. Thanks

Optimist_Prime October 16th, 2011 06:06 AM

Here's a MMPR Morpher I restored about a year ago then sold on eBay. I was happy with the results.


GreenWithEvilRanger October 21st, 2011 01:15 AM

Here are two power morphers in various conditions I decided to customize.
Also the morpher on the left stays on the left in all pictures and vice-versa.

[IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA190700.jpg?t=1319182880[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA190702.jpg?t=1319182939[/IMG]
(Sorry I already started the sticker removal process on the right one)

So first I remove the plates from the morpher.

So I heard alot of ways to remove stickers from the plates, but I didn't want to spend the extra money so I found a household way. I just peeled the stickers off as best as I could then soaked the plates in 100% canola oil for about 20 minutes, then I just used a towel to wipe away all the residue and washed them afterwards.

So here they are after their canola bath :) and got sanded with 1000 grit sandpaper to even out any bumps.
[IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA190705.jpg?t=1319183393[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA190704.jpg?t=1319183549[/IMG]

Oddly enough they both have some nicks in almost the same place it is creepy. But you can tell by the left morpher having the pink on top and being less sanded. And now I know people are gonna get on me for sanding and priming but hey it cant hurt.
Here they are with one coat of Rust-oleum White Plastic Primer (looks whiter then in pic) [IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA200709.jpg?t=1319184031[/IMG]

Then I did a coat of Testors Metallic Gold #1244 and two coats of Rust-oleum Painters Touch Gloss Clear. I waited an hour between each coat, primer-paint-clear coat, and 30 minutes for second clear coat.

Here they are all done and dried and put back on morphers :)
[IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA200713.jpg?t=1319184401[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee385/TheEvilWhiteRanger/Customizing%20Morpher/PA200710.jpg?t=1319184439[/IMG]

So when I picked up these morphers they came with one set of tv accurate stickers but not reprolabels. I never had reprolabels but the letters on these stickers pop out, like the letters are their own stickers on the red circle. But here is the right morpher with stickers and my tigerzord coin from the toy. Now I am just waiting on my reprolabels :)

Jerry December 16th, 2011 11:58 AM

This thread has been beyond valuable for me. However, after morpher plate restoration, it seems everyone either chooses to not put on the sticker bolts, or to put them on. What about painting the black bolts on? Is there a specific paint/method that could be used to paint the bolts on, as opposed to getting the stickers that will come off in a year anyway?

OmegaRangerRed December 16th, 2011 12:00 PM

not that i've seen. i tried once myself and it looked like....well...shit is about the best word I could give for it.

Uchi69 December 19th, 2011 09:07 PM

where can I get a really good one for myself. While I'm at it... the power coins too

MnemonicSyntax December 19th, 2011 09:20 PM

One what?

jqjedi December 19th, 2011 09:20 PM

[QUOTE=Uchi69;3943771]where can I get a really good one for myself. While I'm at it... the power coins too[/QUOTE]


Redlunarwolf December 19th, 2011 09:21 PM

fyi Uchi69 you might want to read the rules. :) Asking for Power Morphers is against them.


hulkioa06 December 29th, 2011 07:04 PM

Here's my custom Dyno Buckler I just finished. Metal plates, metal coin, and metal X&Y axis from Starlight Studios, stickers from Reprolabels.



And my Dragon Buckler, using gold plates, coin and axis from Starlight Studios and labels from blinddrummer15.





bellmore1987 January 9th, 2012 03:15 PM

does anyone know of a good/screen accurate gold and grey/silver paint that isn't testors? say maybe tremclad, rustoleum, krylon?

EDIT: Just found a badass gold (especially for coins) dries super fast, bonds and blends ultra easy (without prime) and I got it on clearence at Zellers it's called Excel Metallic Finish "Gold" be careful though there's also an "Antique Gold" ...........Silver aswell is pretty awesome! Just remember to clear coat/seal with this paint, it tends to rub off onto things :)

konsume747 January 22nd, 2012 12:43 PM

That is a really nice morpher. I was debating on painting plates gold or getting those starlight metal gold ones. Those metal plates look so nice.

xvi37 February 5th, 2012 04:32 PM

Is it alright to spray WD40 on the back of the inside in the morphers where the x&y axis are? Will it damage the electronics or anything like that?

Toliver 2.0 February 5th, 2012 04:54 PM

[QUOTE=xvi37;3983461]Is it alright to spray WD40 on the back of the inside in the morphers where the x&y axis are? Will it damage the electronics or anything like that?[/QUOTE]

I wouldn't spray it. If you need to lubricate the hinge/contact points, I think wd40 would be fine. However, I would try to isolate the area more, like, spraying the wd40 into the cap and dabbing a cue-tip into the pool that forms and applying that way.

xvi37 February 5th, 2012 05:02 PM

damn. might be too late LOL. But I think it should be fine. Can I do the same thing with metal x&y axis for the reducing of the gap?

greencandle77 February 5th, 2012 06:31 PM

does anyone on rangerboard make battle damaged busted morpher if I send them mine like Adam's from "Always a Chance"

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:32 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® / Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.