This is my tutorial on how to take a MMPR Blade Blaster and convert it to a Zyuranger Blaster.
I saw this tread http://www.rangerboard.com/showthread.php?t=146861
about converting the blaster but it did not have any instructions.
Part 1: Disassembly
Small Phillips Head Screw driver
Small Flat Head Screw Driver’s (more than one helps)
Ziploc bags (small and large)
First you are going to need your Blade Blaster. I got mine off eBay. I want to convert it to a Zyuranger Blaster to be more screen accurate to use with my MMPR Red Ranger costume.
I started by removing the original stickers from both sides of the blaster.
Removing the screws and make sure to keep up with them; as you will need them to put your blaster back together.
Once all the screws have been removed you can start taking the blaster apart.
Now the main body of the blaster should pop apart easily with little force. Make sure to note how the wires are ran to help with reassembly.
Now it is time to disassemble the top part of the blaster and remove the chrome pieces.
Taking apart the handle is a bit tricky as you have to remove the black grip. I used very small flat head screw drivers and very carefully pride on side up then the other making sure not to damage the piece. You will have one more screw to remove before the handle will come apart. Again make sure to note how the electronics are positioned in the handle.
After removing the electronics from the handle your blaster should be completely disassembled. Now to make sure to keep up with all the parts and screws. I put mine parts in zip lock bags.
I put everything into a large Ziploc bag until I start the next phase of the conversion.
Part 2: Paint Prep
Goo Gone Pro Power
400-800 Grit Sand Paper
Small Plastic Bowl
For Paint Prep we will remove the left over sticky residue from removing the stickers with Goo Gone Pro Power, remove the chrome plating from all chrome pieces, and sand all parts to be painted.
Take the paper towel and spay a little amount of Goo Gone Pro Power on to it. Then with minimum presser rub off the sticky residue for the blaster. Wipe off any leftover Goo Gone with a dry paper towel.
Main Body with Sticky residue
Main Body cleaned
After the residue is gone you can now start to sand the all the pieces with 400-800 grit sand paper. This will help the paint bond to the plastic. Once all the parts have been lightly sanded set them to the side and get ready to remove the chrome.
Now to remove the chrome from all the plastic parts. This is an optional step and one that toke me a couple of days. Take a small plastic bowl and fill it with Simple Green. Now place the pieces into the bowl and let set for a couple of hours. It will take time for the simple Green to start dissolving the chrome plating. After it 2-3 hours I dipped a piece of 600 grit sand paper into the simple green and started wet sanding the left over chrome off. With a little bit of elbow grease the chrome will soon be gone. After the chrome has been removed it is time to rise off all the parts with water and set them out to dry.
“NOTE: The picture of the parts in the bowl. The liquid is not Simple Green but 409 all Purpose Cleaner that did not do anything like it was suppose to do.”
Part 3: Paint
400-800 Grit Sand Paper
Krylon Fusion Spray Paint
Krylon Matte Aluminum
“NOTE: The key to this section is to ALLOW THE PAINT TO DRY. As much as you want to go all grabby hands on your nicely painted parts DON’T. Make sure you have given them plenty of time to dry or you will have to sand and repaint them.”
Start by setting up an area to spray in.
Spraying a light coat of primer on to each part. Allow the primer to fully dry before spraying any other paint. Check each piece and make sure you don’t have any paint bubbles of pulling of paint. If you do then wet sand those with the 400-800 grit sand paper. Now after checking each part and they are okay now it is time to start painting.
Here is a good example of not waiting till the paint was dry. I had to sand and then re-primer the part.
We are going to paint each set of parts based on color. Since there are only two pieces that will need to be painted white those are the ones that I started with.
First coat of white paint.
“NOTE: After the paint has dried check the part for any paint bubbles or pulling of paint. If there are any then wet sand the part then repaint if needed. If the part is okay then move them away from where you are painting. This will keep you from over spraying the completed part.”
Now time to start painting all the parts that will be red.
First set of red parts done and setting with white main body.
When I was moving one of the parts to paint the back side I dropped it. I had to let the paint dry before sanding to fix it.
After you have painted all the parts red lets move on to the two black parts.
First coat of black paint.
Now waiting on it to dry before applying the second coat. Applied the second coat and let dry now moving on to paint the aluminum parts.
Here is a new part that is no part of the original toy. It is a resin cast blade to replace the flimsy original one. I got this from DrHankamer you can get one from him. Here is the link Resin Blades for MMPR Bladeblaster
Painting the base coat of aluminum on the new resin blade.
After the paint has dried I taped off the blade to prep it for the red paint. Cut away the tape that is covering the side portions of the blade.
After the taping the blade off its time to paint.
The blade finished.
Now to put it all back together.
Part 4 Reassembly
Now reassembly is pretty easy. Just follow Part 1 Disassembly in reverse to put you Zyuranger Blaster together the same way it came apart. Make sure to put the wires back in the same way they came out.
Now here is the new Zyuranger Blaster only missing the stickers which I still need to order.
Original MMPR Blade Blaster and the Zyuranger Blaster.
Part 5 Detailing
Well I was looking at my reference pictures and notice some things I want to do to my blaster. So now that it is completely painted I’m going back and added more details to the blaster.
First I painted the tip of the main body red.
After it was done drying I put it all back together.
Once I got my Repolables I allied them to the blaster.
For the main body lable I had to cut out the Zyuranger and blue line. Make sure to take your time if your doing this as you don’t want to mess up the stickers.
Here it is in blaster mode.
Comparied to an unmodified MMPR Blaster.
I still want to paint in all the black detail lines but that’s going to have to wait. I am happy with the way the blaster turned out. Hope this helps any one eles that wants to convert there MMPR blater to a ZYU Blaster.