Repainting Zords (Blizzard Force particularly)

[Jerry]

OK, I've decided that I'm not gonna get the Blizzard Force unless I can repaint it. Only problem is I only did one complete repaint of a zord (White Shogunzord) and it turned out horribly. I need any suggestions or tips you have, along with color tips for the color scheme, and what to use on the shoulder parts since it's supposed to be shiny. Thanks! :D

[USSEnterprise]

OK, I've decided that I'm not gonna get the Blizzard Force unless I can repaint it. Only problem is I only did one complete repaint of a zord (White Shogunzord) and it turned out horribly. I need any suggestions or tips you have, along with color tips for the color scheme, and what to use on the shoulder parts since it's supposed to be shiny. Thanks! :DThis will be a tough project, especially since, as you pointed out, the shiny parts are also wrong.

For normal areas, I'd probably go to a craft store and pick out some acrylic craft paint. It's way cheaper than oil-based stuff, mixes and cleans up much easier, and comes in many more colors. Only problem is that it isn't as strong as oil-based stuff, and it is often way too thick for painting plastic. You can buy acrylic thinner to help with that, and to make it hold better, mix in some acrylic gloss or flat clear paint from Testors. Be prepared to paint several coats... it may help to pre-paint the areas with a white primer. After you're completely done, paint over it with just the clear to help seal the other coats in.

Masking is also important... use masking tape or painting tape to mask off the borders around details and make it easier to paint. If you use acrylics, small mistakes can be fixed easily by carefully scraping the paint away. I don't recall off-hand where the zord is glued together and where it's held together by screws, but if you need to, unscrew things to get a better reach at them with the brush. Just make sure to do it carefully and keep track of where everything goes! Fortunately, Blizzard Force seems like you won't need to do much of that... most everything comes apart by design.

As far as colors go, again, just go to Hobby Lobby or Michael's and take a look at their paint. I'm absolutely certain they have the pastel colors which were used in Bakureno, or at least ones close enough which can be lightened or darkened easily. They also make metallic-looking acrylic paint that's pretty good... maybe mixing a silver with a lavender would work for the areas on the shoulders.

But most importantly, take your time and don't be discouraged if something goes wrong. If you need to, walk away from it for a few hours or even days and then come back with a fresh start... it really helps, especially with a potentially tedious project like this.

[Jerry]

Thanks! This helps a bunch. I have one more question though. My big problem with my white Shogunzord was that my paint didn't come out in an even coat. Is there something I can do about this, like using a certain brush or something?

[AndrosTheRedRanger]

use goo-gone,itll clear off the white paint you used,and you can just start alllllllll over! yay! That is if you didnt seal it yet.

And if you use Acrylic,I find it best in my customs to blow dry it dry. That way you save time and it evens it all out smooth. Just remeber extra coats are your friend! Also youll want a nice find point brush make sure its soft and not rough!

If a brush you buy is less then 3 dollars.......your better off blowing your toys up with a M-80!

[Aaron Hong]

I use spray paints for preference. I go through a lot of masking tape as well, but I also trim it off with a knife, sometimes for custom effects.

[TimP Version 3.0]

I use spray paints for preference. I go through a lot of masking tape as well, but I also trim it off with a knife, sometimes for custom effects.


I tried that once but it came out all sticky. Is there a certain brand?

[Cyrax9]

This will be a tough project, especially since, as you pointed out, the shiny parts are also wrong.

For normal areas, I'd probably go to a craft store and pick out some acrylic craft paint. It's way cheaper than oil-based stuff, mixes and cleans up much easier, and comes in many more colors. Only problem is that it isn't as strong as oil-based stuff, and it is often way too thick for painting plastic. You can buy acrylic thinner to help with that, and to make it hold better, mix in some acrylic gloss or flat clear paint from Testors. Be prepared to paint several coats... it may help to pre-paint the areas with a white primer. After you're completely done, paint over it with just the clear to help seal the other coats in.

Masking is also important... use masking tape or painting tape to mask off the borders around details and make it easier to paint. If you use acrylics, small mistakes can be fixed easily by carefully scraping the paint away. I don't recall off-hand where the zord is glued together and where it's held together by screws, but if you need to, unscrew things to get a better reach at them with the brush. Just make sure to do it carefully and keep track of where everything goes! Fortunately, Blizzard Force seems like you won't need to do much of that... most everything comes apart by design.

As far as colors go, again, just go to Hobby Lobby or Michael's and take a look at their paint. I'm absolutely certain they have the pastel colors which were used in Bakureno, or at least ones close enough which can be lightened or darkened easily. They also make metallic-looking acrylic paint that's pretty good... maybe mixing a silver with a lavender would work for the areas on the shoulders.

But most importantly, take your time and don't be discouraged if something goes wrong. If you need to, walk away from it for a few hours or even days and then come back with a fresh start... it really helps, especially with a potentially tedious project like this.

USSEnterprise -- I've had MUCH BETTER luck with Oil-based Spraypaint, using tape to "mask" large areas and a "Model Masters" finsih in either High or Semi-Gloss, as opposed to Acrylic/Enamel-based paints.

If you have neewpaper and some awax paperr you should be fne for spraying alrge areas, for detail, soe pllastic gloves and newspriint will rpotect youur fingers and work surface and I reccomend a small botle of paiint thinner as well, unless you have an airbrush, Oil-based spraypaints are the only way to do large areas effectively without messing up your toy or having the paint peel, a local hobby shop usually has Model masters and tamiya, both of which I recommend.

However, if you have a large backyard witha patio, use KRYLON FUSION which is design SPECIFICALLY for Hard Plastics, like those used on outdoor chairs or kids playsets outside, and thus, dry well on plastic toys. (Duh!) once they're dry they won't be going anywhere but a good rule of thukb is to elave EVERYTHING for 24 hours before hanling it even if it says it's dry in 30 minutes, trust me I've done enough customs to knwo dry in 30, isn't -- even for Model paints.

BF is gonna be one major project I'm considering doing a LifeForce MZ if I can get the two LR MZ's needed but it'd take me a good year or so if you know what I mean, also take pictures of your work if you have to dissassemble parts (which you will) or your zord will wind up liike Humpty Dumpty -- all the kings horses and all the kings men won't be abel to put the BF MZ back togetehr again! You'll need to note that bandai seems to have a "screw fetish" by securing everything with screws in odd places! This makes it easy t take apart, but it'sd just as painful to put back togetehr as find the "escapee" in your enw comptuer tower that didn't go in pace -- in other words, painful.

Hope this helps a lttle and I usually sue Clear Coay Pearl Gloss for my Semi finish and Model master (same brand as the otehr one) GHigh Gloss for my High Finish.

[USSEnterprise]

Thanks! This helps a bunch. I have one more question though. My big problem with my white Shogunzord was that my paint didn't come out in an even coat. Is there something I can do about this, like using a certain brush or something?Andros's suggestion about a better brush is a good one, but I've had lots of luck with the crappy brushes that come free with some paints, too. I'd probably thin your paint down quite a bit, especially if you used acrylics. That's usually the problem... it comes out less clumpy. You can use a thinner, gloss, or a combination of both. Water is also useful, but I'd probably use purified water and not stuff from the tap... there may be minerals and impurities in tap water that affect the paint.

And again, be very patient. It took me close to a week to get a thick enough coat to hide the pink on my Shogunzord.

[USSEnterprise]

I tried that once but it came out all sticky. Is there a certain brand?Again, check a hobby or hardware store... I'm sure there are brands designed for fine detail work that won't get sticky like that. Also, when you pull tape away, make sure to fold one edge completely over and then perpendicular to the direction it will be coming off. Then start pulling while keeping that part and the end coming off perpendicular.

[USSEnterprise]

USSEnterprise -- I've had MUCH BETTER luck with Oil-based Spraypaint, using tape to "mask" large areas and a "Model Masters" finsih in either High or Semi-Gloss, as opposed to Acrylic/Enamel-based paints. Agreed, these are best for large areas on unpainted models, or things where you don't need to worry about destroying the preexisting paint job. However, on stuff like the White Shogunzord or Blizzard Force, a lot of other detail is still salvageable. It would be easier to do most of the work by hand than sit there and mask everything, at least in my opinion. Plus acrylics are easier to use and clean, especially for the beginner, and they last like oil-based stuff as long as you seal them.

[AndrosTheRedRanger]

Agreed,USS you know your stuff.

As for the masking tape with spray its just a mess after a while,when you peel the tape away and recive jagged edges. If your really doing it on plastic by bandai,arcylic mixed with a bit of water is your best friend....and I would know.

[Does_It_Matter!]

I'll add something about shiny parts. Metallic paint is nice actually but if you're a fanatic and want the thing shiny till it can reflect bits of your face unlike metallic, get a chrome spraypaint.(cost more than the usually acrylic)(the one use on car bumpers works ok)

Spray whatever you want with it in chrome(shiny silver) and let it try for 24hrs as suggested. If you wanna add colour to it, get a translucent type of spray paint(also cost more) and spray it over the chrome parts.

Overall, it's a costly job but hey, if done correctly, you'll get something as shiny as a GaoMuscle Chest.(shiny green)

[DragonCaesar]

Buy Bakurenoh off ebay, its worth it plus u get cool dino plates.